Setting Stones and Gems in Silver Clay

Setting Stones and Gems in Silver Clay

Setting Stones and Gems in Silver Clay

By Louise Anne Designs

Working with silver clay unlocks a world of creative freedom for jewellery makers. The ability to sculpt, texture, carve, and transform soft clay into beautiful fine silver is incredibly magical. But one of the most exciting—and often misunderstood—techniques is setting stones and gems directly into the silver clay before firing.

 Whether you’re a beginner who has just discovered this versatile material or an experienced maker looking to refine your stone-setting skills, this guide walks you through everything you need to know.  From understanding which stones can be fired to professional finishing techniques, this blog will help you confidently create stunning gemstone pieces with silver clay.

What Makes Silver Clay Perfect for Stone Setting?

 Silver clay—sometimes called metal clay—is a mixture of pure silver particles, organic binders, and water. When shaped and fired, it transforms into 99.9% fine silver, making it ideal for jewellery making.

✔ Soft and shapeable

You can easily press stones into the clay, sculpt bezels around them, or create prong-like structures.

✔ Shrinkage creates natural tension

As the clay shrinks during firing (usually 8–12%), it tightens around fire-safe stones and keeps them secure.

✔ Works beautifully with textures

Stones set into textured surfaces create dimension and contrast, which is why so many silver clay artists love adding gems.

✔ Compatible with both fired and post-firing settings

You can choose:

  • Stone-in-place setting (setting before firing)

  • Traditional metalwork setting (setting after firing)

We’ll cover both approaches below.

Understanding Fireable Stones: What Can and Cannot Be Fired

 Not all stones survive kiln or torch firing, and this is where many beginners run into problems. Silver clay firing temperatures typically range from 650°C to 900°C depending on the clay type and method.

🔥 Stones That Are Safe to Fire in Place

These stones are known to withstand the heat of silver clay firing:

1. Cubic Zirconia (CZ)

The most popular fireable stone. They retain brilliance and colour even at high temperatures, although pastel shades may shift slightly.

2. Synthetic Spinel

These are lab-created and extremely heat resistant. Colour stability is excellent.

3. Lab-Made Corundum (Synthetic Ruby & Sapphire)

Corundum is incredibly tough. Most lab sapphires and rubies fire beautifully.

4. Natural Diamonds (Only Some)

Small, untreated natural diamonds can survive firing, especially in the kiln. However, clarity-enhanced or heat-treated stones can fracture—so use caution.

5. Some Natural Gemstones (Low Temperature Kiln Only)

A few natural stones can tolerate lower firing schedules (650°C):

  • Garnet

  • Peridot

  • Some natural sapphires

  • Some topaz

  • Certain spinels

Always test on a sacrificial stone first. Natural stones vary chemically and structurally.

❌ Stones That Should NOT Be Fired

These stones will crack, burn, discolour, or explode under heat:

  • Opal (including lab opal)

  • Turquoise

  • Lapis Lazuli

  • Pearl

  • Most quartz (including amethyst, citrine, rose quartz)

  • Malachite

  • Moonstone

  • Labradorite

For these stones, use post-firing settings such as bezels, prongs, or glue-in cups.

Stone Setting Methods in Silver Clay

Let’s dive into the main techniques.

1. Stone-in-Place Setting (Setting Before Firing)

This is the method most people think of when working with gemstones in silver clay. It involves embedding the stone in the clay while it’s still soft, letting the shrinkage tighten the setting around the gem during firing. 
 

Best For:

  • Fireable stones

  • CZs and synthetic stones

  • Kiln firing (though torch firing can work for some stones)

 

How to Stone-Set in Wet Silver Clay

Step 1: Prepare the Clay

Condition and roll the clay to the desired thickness—usually 1.5–3mm for stability.

Step 2: Create a Seat for the Stone

Press the stone gently into the clay to form a clean seat.
Tip: use a setting burr or a rubber-tipped clay tool for precision.

Step 3: Push Up the Clay Walls

The clay around the stone should rise slightly to create a natural bezel.

Step 4: Consider Shrinkage

Because silver clay shrinks on firing, do not overly compress the clay around the stone. Leave a little wiggle room.

Step 5: Dry Thoroughly

Water trapped under stones can cause cracks. Leave the piece to dry fully—overnight or using a dehydrator.

Step 6: Fire According to the Stone’s Tolerance

Kiln firing is best for temperature stability, but many CZs withstand torch firing.

Pros of Stone-in-Place Setting

  • Fast and convenient

  • No soldering needed

  • Shrinkage grips stones tightly

  • Seamless look

Cons

  • Limited to fireable stones

  • Colour shifts can occur

  • Some stones crack if moisture remains

2. Embedding Stones in Dry Clay (Carving or Drilling a Setting)

This method works well for dry clay (greenware) and gives you far more control.

 

How It Works:

Once the clay is bone-dry, you can:

  • Carve out a seat

  • Drill a recess

  • File the shape of the setting

Then place the stone into the cavity and refine the edges around it.

This is especially useful for snap-fit precision.

Benefits

  • More accurate seat shape

  • Cleaner and more professional results

  • Better for small/precision stones

3. Creating Faux Bezels in Silver Clay

Silver clay can be sculpted into built-in bezels.

Method:

  • Roll a thin snake or strip of clay

  • Wrap it around the stone

  • Remove the stone

  • Attach the bezel to your piece

  • Reinsert the stone before firing

Removing the stone before firing is crucial unless it’s fireable.

4. Setting Stones After Firing (Traditional Silversmithing Techniques)

For non-fireable stones—or when you want the highest level of control and jewellery-grade finish—setting stones after firing is essential.

Common post-firing settings:

✔ Tube settings

Great for small round stones. You can embed a pre-made tube setting into the clay before firing or solder it onto the fired piece.

✔ Bezel settings

Either:

  • Create the bezel in clay

  • Attach a fine silver bezel strip after firing

✔ Prong settings

Solder on prong cups or create prongs from fine silver wire.

✔ Glue-in settings

Not as traditional, but ideal for porous stones (turquoise, malachite) or delicate cabochons. Use high-quality epoxy resin.

Professional Tips for Setting Stones in Silver Clay

Here’s where things get exciting—these tips come from years of working with silver clay jewellery and can save you endless frustration.

1. Test Every Stone First

Even when stones are labelled “fire safe,” always test one in the same firing conditions you’ll use.

Different kilns = different real-world temperatures.

2. Don’t Overwork the Clay Around Gemstones

Extra moisture around stones leads to cracks.

Work lightly and keep the clay firm, not mushy.

3. Support Large Stones on Kiln Shelves

Heavy stones can sink or shift during firing.

Use:

  • Fiberboard

  • Ceramic supports

  • Vermiculite

4. Expect Colour Shifts

Some colours (especially pale pinks and light blues) may darken slightly. Blues and clear CZs generally hold the best colour.

5. Stabilise Stones with Paste

If a stone feels loose in the dry clay, use silver clay paste to reinforce the seat.

6. Polishing Tips

After firing, polish gently around stones using:

  • Silicone polishing wheels

  • Soft bristle brushes

  • Avoid hard compounds which scratch CZs

7. Avoid Thermal Shock

Let the piece cool naturally. Do NOT quench pieces with stones in them.

Common Stone-Setting Mistakes and How to Avoid Them

❌ Mistake 1: Stone cracks during firing

Cause: moisture, incompatible stone, or rapid temperature changes.
✔ Fix: ensure full drying; test stone type.

❌ Mistake 2: Stone falls out after firing

Cause: too much shrinkage or insufficient clay holding it.
✔ Fix: use deeper seats and thicker walls.

❌ Mistake 3: Clay cracks around the stone

Cause: differential shrinkage.
✔ Fix: avoid forcing stones into the clay; create a more relaxed seat.

 

Creative Design Ideas for Stone-Set Silver Clay Jewellery

Here are some inspiring project ideas perfect for Louise Anne Designs customers:

✨ 1. Textured pendants with inset CZ clusters

Use organic textures and embed several small CZ stones in a starry layout.

✨ 2. Nature-inspired leaf pendants with green-fired peridot

Peridot cabochons at low temperatures give a natural earthy feel.

✨ 3. Statement rings with sculpted clay bezels

Carve your own bezel shape directly from the clay.

✨ 4. Silver clay stud earrings with tube-set post-firing CZs

A perfect beginner project—clean, modern, and professional.

✨ 5. Mixed-media pendants with non-fireable stones set post-firing

Combine silver clay elements with turquoise, opal, or moonstone after polishing.

Finishing Your Stone-Set Silver Clay Jewellery

Once your piece is fired, it's time to bring it to life.

Step 1: Brush

Use a brass brush or fine steel brush to bring the silver to a soft sheen.

Step 2: Polish

Use polishing wheels, a tumbler, or hand-polish with cloths.

Step 3: Patina (Optional)

Apply liver of sulphur to highlight textures and make stones pop.

Step 4: Final Inspection

Check stone stability with gentle pressure—never use tools to test tightness.

Tools and Materials You’ll Need

  • Silver clay

  • Fireable stones (CZ, synthetic sapphire, etc.)

  • Bezel wire or tubes for post-firing settings

  • Rubber-tipped clay shapers

  • Clay knife and needle tools

  • Sanding pads

  • Torch or kiln

  • Paste and syringe clay

Having the right tools makes the process smoother and the final result more professional.

Why Stone Setting in Silver Clay Is Worth Mastering

Setting stones in silver clay:

  • expands your design possibilities

  • helps you create professional-grade jewellery

  • allows you to explore textures, colour, and form

  • opens creative pathways not possible in traditional metalwork alone

 

Once you understand which stones are safe to fire and how to create secure settings, the technique becomes intuitive, satisfying, and highly rewarding.

Jewellery made with silver clay and stones has a unique handmade beauty—organic, artisanal, and full of personality. With practice, you’ll discover your own style and aesthetic, from elegant minimalism to bold, sculpted statements.

Final Thoughts

Stone setting in silver clay is one of the most expressive techniques in contemporary jewellery making. Whether you’re embedding sparkling CZs before firing or creating classic bezel settings for delicate cabochons, mastering this skill dramatically elevates your work.

 At Louise Anne Designs, we believe jewellery should feel personal, meaningful, and beautifully crafted. Exploring the world of gemstones in silver clay is a wonderful way to develop your artistry and create pieces that truly shine—both literally and figuratively. 

We run a specific stone setting course as well as a ring course.  More details are available on the courses page which is accessible through the 'Courses' link at the top of this page.

https://louiseannedesigns.co.uk/collections/course

 

Back to blog